There are some Domaines which seem to hit a sort of universal style and yet make wine of uncompromising excellence. One such is the Domaine Meo-Camuzet in Vosne. The first whiff of their Bourgogne Rouge is enough to convince you that you are dealing with a level of quality attained by few others in the Cote.
A magnificent legacy, Domaine Meo-Camuzet has nearly 7 hectares of excellent land in Nuits, Vosne, Vougeot and Corton, with no less than 2.3 hectares of Grands Crus. Many of the vines are now over 60 years old, which adds an extra dimension of concentration and depth to the wines.
When the grapes are harvested, strict control both in vineyard and cuverie ensures that only the ripest, healthiest fruit goes into the vats. At the cuveries all the stalks are removed and the grapes lightly sulphured to eradicate any promendaing bacteria. Without crushing, the fruit is cooled to 15-18 degrees C and put into wood or
cement cuves and left for 5-6 days during which an intracellular extraction removes color and aroma compounds from the skins.
The Meo style has barely changed from that of Henri Jayer's regency. The overriding hallmarks are profound concentration, combined with exquisite delicacy; wines which are both ample and fat, but with a firm grip and immense charm.
At the top of the Meo pyramid sit a superb trio of Grands Crus. The Corton, made from 65-year-old vines in the Clos Rognet at the northerly Ladoix sector of the appellation, has a broader, powerful flavor, with a distinct ripe cherry component on the nose- a stylish, but very different Crand Cru to the others. The wines have, above all, great harmony and richness, and unmistakeable class. These are rarely big, over-extracted wines, but fine, more delicate expressions of their individual origins. This is a first-class Domaine.
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Last revised 7/18/99